One Last Heinz Strobl Snapology Project

As much as I’ve enjoyed folding Snapology models by Heinz Strobl, I had planned to move onto something else to keep up a little variety.  However, I had the idea of making the small Icosahedron models to give as a reward/incentive to a class of 11-year olds that I team-teach in church.  We had a program in which all of the primary-aged children had speaking and singing parts.  All of the children did a fantastic job, but I was particularly proud of my class.  I had a blast making the models and loved the reaction from each of the kids when they got them.  I had contacted each of their moms to find out their favorite color and used that as the main color for each of them.  Something that I found especially amusing was that of the nine kids (there was five boys and four girls) eight of them said their favorite color was either blue or green (or a variation of one of those colors, like turquoise).  I thought for sure one of the girls would have said purple.  Despite that, I like the several color variations that were created.  By the time I had finished all of them I only had time and light to take one group picture of them.  I was very pleased with all of them, but my favorite color combination is the dark blue and yellow that is second from the left in the bottom corner.

Heinz Strobl Snapology Icosahedron collection 3The group picture of Heinz Strobl’s Snapology Icosahedron models I made for my Primary class I lead at church.

The link to find the instructions on how to make this particular model are found here.  Enjoy.

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More Heinz Strobl Snapology Models

Here are the rest of the Snapology models that I folded.  In my last post about the largest model (the Truncated Icosidodecahedron) I stated that I didn’t use any glue (which I didn’t), however some of the smaller models required it.  I used glue dots (which my wife so graciously offered to let me try and which I depleted rather quickly :) to hold the tabs down on some of the models for aesthetics sake.  My favorite models are the larger ones that required no glue.

Heinz Strobl Snapology collection 1The whole collection.
Heinz Strobl Snapology collection 6Another shot of the entire collection smallest to largest.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Tetrahedron Cube and OctahedronThe 3 smallest units.  The yellow and blue model on the left is a Tetrahedron (4-sided), the yellow and red model on the right is a cube (6-sided), and the blue and yellow model in the middle is an octahedron (8-sided).  I had to use glue on all of the sides of each of these models to hold them together.
Heinz Strobl Snapology DodecahedronA close-up shot of the Dodecahedron (12-sided) model; I had to use glue on some the sides of this model.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Icosahedron orange and greenMy second favorite model, the Icosahedron (20-sided) model.


Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Cube 1The Truncated Cube model.  This is one of the models that I had to use glue to hold together.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated CuboctahedronThis  is the Truncated Cuboctahedron model.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Icosihedron green and purpleThis is actually the first Snapology model I tried.  I followed the instructions from the Web site which has you take a normal sheet of copier paper and make the strips; this produces a larger model than the rest of the ones I folded.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Icosihedron orange and green in handAnother shot of the first Icosahedron.  I love the size.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Icosihedrons and Truncated Icosidodecahedron size comparisonHere’s a shot giving a comparison of the different models.
Heinz Strobl Snapology IcosidodecahedronLast, but not least, is my favorite model, the Icosidodecahedron.  Before making this model my favorite was the Icosahedron.  I love the five-pointed stars that are created all the way around this model.

Once again, the link for learning Snapology is here.  Enjoy :)

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Heinz Strobl’s Snapology Project

Something I love about origami is being able to watch paper start at such a plain and basic form that we use everyday and become something so much more incredible and beautiful.  I recently decided to try my hand at something that I’d found on the Internet a while ago, Snapology.  I was surprised at how simple the technique is and how the results look.  The models don’t take much time to actually fold, so before I knew it I had tried nearly a dozen of them; each one of them a little larger than the one before.  I decided to try a very large model and document each of the steps.  Here they are:

Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 1 paperIt starts with plain copier paper that you can find at any store that carries office supplies.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 2 paper stripsThe paper is then cut into strips of a predetermined width (these are 1/2 an inch).
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 3 plaited stripsThe strips are then pleated together; they look like little springs.  I remember when I was little my dad would bring home the discarded strips of paper from the old dot-matrix printers they used at work; the printers that feed the paper through them by means of holes along the sides.  You could then tear off and discard the strips with holes.  My dad would bring these home sometimes for my sisters and I to play with.  I remember constantly making these same type of “springs” with that paper.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 4 unplaited stripsAfter taking the painstaking time to make sure that all of the strips are pleated accurately (it’s very important to make sure they are kept as perpendicular to one another as possible), you turn around and take them apart.  The strips now look like they’ve been sent through a paper crimper.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 5 paper strips cutThe strips of paper are then cut to specific lengths for the model that has been chosen.  At this point there are about 180 of the small strips of blue paper.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 6 first layerAnd now for my favorite part of any modular or unit origami model: the assembly.  I started with a decagon (10-sided) and attached squares and hexagons alternately to it.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 7 second layer 2From there I added 5 more decagons with the necessary squares and hexagons in between.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 8 third layer 2After that an additional 5 decagons are added for the next layer of assembly.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron project 9 complete 1Finally the last (and 12th) decagon is added to complete the model.
Heinz Strobl Snapology Truncated Icosidodecahedron in handAnother shot of the final model to give a little perspective.  It’s roughly the size of a softball.

The model I used is known as a Truncated Icosidodecahedron for anyone as geeky as myself that wants to know.  It’s comprised of 12 decagons (10-sided), 20 hexagons (6-sided), and 30 squares.  I didn’t actually clock how long it took me to cut, fold and assemble, but I estimate it was a solid couple of days total.  Obviously this is the one that took the longest because its the largest.  Something to note here is that there is no glue holding it together.  The only cutting that was done was to get the strips, after that it was just folding and assembling.

The link to where I found instructions are here.  The site is in both English and Polish.  The instructions aren’t the most clear (it’s obvious that English is not the author’s first language) but still sufficiently detailed and has good pictures as a guide.  The rest of the site is very impressive, with fantastic pictures of models that they’ve folded and lots of diagrams for other models.

Another site that has instructions about origami strip paper folding is here.  I’ve done another model from here that I love, the Sphere 94.  The original creator of Snapology is Heinz Strobl.  If you get curious about some of the other things that he has created simply type his name into a search engine for images and you’ll find some very impressive pictures.  I absolutely love that origami can be found so plentifully on the Internet at no charge; this hobby can truly be an inexpensive one.  Having said that I still absolutely love my small collection of origami books that have taught me so much.  Enjoy the pictures.  I will post again soon the rest of the Snapology models that I folded.

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Origami Fail

Inevitably when folding origami, its bound to happen when something you attempt doesn’t turn out like it was intended.  It’s particularly true when trying something for the first time, or when you try something fairly difficult.  My favorite type of origami is geometric and modular origami.  As I’ve said in the past, my favorite author/designer is Tomoko Fuse.  Another origamist that I’ve found that is a very close second is Daniel Kwan.  He doesn’t have any books published sadly (that I’m aware of), but he is incredible.  He has made several of his models available for free by posting the diagrams on his Flickr account.  He’s also posted pictures of his models (the ones with diagrams & some without).  His modular origami gallery is here.  Much to my sadness I realized the other day as I was perusing his Flickr account that Daniel Kwan is no longer designing modular origami :(  There are some of his models that I love that he has no diagrams for, and from the sounds of it he doesn’t plan on making them.  That being said, he has diagrams for some really awesome models.  A side note here is that he gave up his modular designing to pursue designing origami tessellations; if he’s going to give up modular origami, that’s a good area to switch to.  As it is to be expected from someone that has designed such great modular work, his tessellations are incredible as well.  His origami tessellations gallery is here.

Back to my reference of failed origami attempts, here are a few pictures of my attempting some of Daniel Kwan’s work.  The first one of his models I tried was the Six Interlocking Pentagonal Prisms.  I first saw a picture of this model while surfing the Internet for origami pictures about 6 or 7 years ago.  I loved it because it reminded me of Tom Hull’s Five Intersecting Tetrahedra, which I had folded a few times.  I didn’t see or find anything else on the model until more recently.  I found that Daniel had posted the instructions for the model on Flickr and wanted to give it a whirl.  The instructions are herehere, and here.

My first attempt was going fine until I started assembling the last Prism with the rest of the model.  I had had to make a little change to the instructions.  In his design he uses three pieces connected to form the long pieces of each prism; these pieces are the ones interlocked.  I had decided to use one piece of paper so that the model would be stronger.  To do that I assembled it as the instructions told and then simply  measure how long it needed to be.  Well, I think I measured a little short.  As I was assembling the final prism together, it was too short and it became a real hassle to assemble.  As a result, the paper was overworked and looked pretty sloppy in certain areas.  Granted, it still went together and looks pretty good, but I tend to be a perfectionist and wanted to do a better one.  Here’s the first attempt:

Daniel Kwan Six Intersecting Pentagonal Prisms Red to Purple 3You can see where the prisms weren’t quite big enough on the red prism.  Notice how the one edge is crumpled a little; also the purple prism on the bottom is crumpled.
Daniel Kwan Six Intersecting Pentagonal Prisms Red to Purple 2Another angle of the first attempt.  You can see where blue prism towards the upper right and green prism on the right are buckled in.

 Now, I admit that I still like the model & it still looks pretty good.  But I still wanted to try again.  So, this time I decided I would just take those long pieces and make them a little longer.  Once again, it was looking fine until I started adding the final prism.  This time, sadly, I had made the units too long.  As a result the model was very loose; while the first one was very tight and snug (too tight and snug).  Here’s the second attempt:

Daniel Kwan Six Intersecting Pentagonal Prisms Green to Purple 1You can see how the green prism is way too tall.  The result would be the same no matter what prism you used to stand on its end.
Daniel Kwan Six  Intersecting Pentagonal Prisms comparisonWith this picture you can tell how much taller I made the second attempt; much too tall.  Next time I’ll attempt something in between.

Again, not a total failure, but also not what I wanted.  I’ll do another attempt, hopefully getting it right this time.

I attempted a second one of Daniel’s models about a week ago.  This one was the Four Interlocking Triangular Prisms.  Its a difficult model to assemble due to the inability of getting your fingers inside the model.  I still like the model.  I was happy with the way it turned out, especially considering it was my first attempt.  The diagrams are here: page 1page 2page 3, and page 4.

Daniel Kwan Four Interlocking Triangular Prisms 1  Here is my first attempt at Daniel Kwan’s Four Interlocking Triangular Prisms.  I was pleased with the way it turned out, although not perfect.
Daniel Kwan Four Interlocking Triangular Prisms 2Another angle of my first attempt at the Four Triangular Prisms by Daniel Kwan.

Daniel has lots of models that I would love to fold and attempt, and look forward to trying them.  Once I do, I’ll post about it.  Until then, enjoy these.


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More Sonobe Balls

After finishing the last post about sonobe balls, it got me wanting to fold some more of them and this time try doing a 30-unit ball.  So I had my wife pick out some dual-sided origami paper and I went to town.  I used the same size pieces of paper to fold, so that I could accurately compare the new, 30-unit ball with the others I posted pictures of.  As I was looking through my origami paper, I came across all of the other 12-unit sonobe balls I had folded.  It was a pleasant surprise, because I thought that most of them had been demolished by one of my kids; apparently just the ones folded out of foil paper.  So, here are some pictures of the 30-unit ball I folded today next to the other balls to give a good comparison. 

Steve Biddle Essential Origami 12- and 30-unit sonobe balls green comparison 5The 30-unit sonobe ball (on the left) designed by Steve Biddle next to a 12-unit ball and a US quarter.  The 30-unit ball is roughly the size of a golf ball (or maybe a little smaller) when done.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami 30-unit and multi 12-unit sonobe balls 1The large 30-unit sonobe ball surrounded by all of the smaller 12-unit sonobe balls that I had folded in the past.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami 12- and 30-unit sonobe balls green comparison 2I was playing around with the camera and liked how this picture turned out.

Once again, an excellent book to find the instructions on how to fold this particular sonobe ball pattern is Essential Origami by Steve and Megumi Biddle.  Enjoy.

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Sonobe Balls and Tomoko Fuse

The first time that I came across this modular ball, the book simply called it a multi-unit sphere.  Since then I’ve run across in several places on the Internet where they are called sonobe balls; a much easier name to refer to them by.  One of the first books that I bought to teach myself origami was by Steve and Megumi Biddle titled Essential Origami: How To Build Dozens of Models from Just 10 Easy Bases.  An excellent book for beginners, it divides all of the models into 10 bases (hence the title; nothing gets past me) that are from the very easy to fairly difficult; some of the later ones I still haven’t attempted.  Steve Biddle created his variation of the basic unit that is required to create these balls.

Each of the balls in these pictures was created from 12 basic units, though another more impressive ball can be made if you use 30 units.  If you saw the post about the Floral Origami Globes by Tomoko Fuse, each of the globes were of the 30-unit design.  In her book, Unit Origami, Tomoko Fuse has a couple of different designs for the basic units; a bird pattern and a pinwheel pattern.  For these balls, I think that Steve Biddle’s design is my favorite; its a pinwheel pattern but its different from Tomko’s. The best type of paper to fold these out of is origami paper, even better to fold it from dual-sided origami paper.  This is because if they are folded from paper that is the same color on both sides, there’s not much of pinwheel pattern to enjoy.  Though if you are going to fold from paper that is the same color on both sides, its best to use two, three or four different colors to combine together.

One of my favorite things that I’ve done with these balls is fold them out of foil origami paper and attach hooks in them to make Christmas tree ornaments (pictured below).  Once you get a hang of folding the basic units and assembling a couple, these balls are very easy to create over and over again.  So, while they may not be terribly difficult or challenging, they are still very visually pleasing and fun to do.  Something else that I love to do with these is to make several of them and put them in a container to display.  The final model is about as around as a quarter.  So, here are just a few pictures of the sonobe balls that I’ve folded.

Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe balls 12-unit misc colors 2Just a few of the 12-unit sonobe balls with Steve Biddle’s design from Essential Origami.  The blue and white ball in the back row is the look you get when using regular origami paper.  The rest were folded from dual-sided origami paper.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe balls 12-unit misc colors 1Another picture of the same sonobe balls spread out.  Again, they are about as round as quarter.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe balls 12-unit foil misc colors 3My wife holding the foil sonobe balls that we attached to hooks to use as Christmas tree ornaments.  This gives a little better idea of how small they are.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe balls 12-unit misc foil 1Another picture of the foil sonobe balls spread out on the table.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe ball 12-unit multi colorWhen we bought our latest digital camera we decided to play with some of the features to get a feel for them.  Here we are using the macro feature to zoom in extra close.
Steve Biddle Essential Origami Sonobe ball 12-unit PiBlu 2Another close up picture of a sonobe ball.  I love how the picture is so close and clear that you can actually see where I tore (instead of cutting) the origami paper when I was dividing the sheet I used into 12 pieces of paper.

So, those are just a few pictures that I have.  I actually used to have many more of the balls folded once upon a time, but before I took the time to take some pictures of them one of my children got a hold of them and wanted to see how they came apart.  Oh well.  Guess I’ll just have to fold some more :)  Also, I think in the near future I’ll fold one of the 30-unit balls at this size to give some comparison of the two models.

Side note: the entire reason that I picked up, looked through, and eventually purchased Steve and Megumi Biddle’s Essential Origami was because of the dragon on the front.  I love dragons.  The dragon model was actually the first thing that I taught myself to fold out of the book (looking back there were probably easier models to start out with).  Sadly, I don’t have any pictures of any of the dragons I’ve folded; guess I’ll just have to break open that book again and fold some more.  Also, not only are you able to look through several of the pages in this book with the link to the side, but some Amazon user has uploaded pictures of a couple of the models that they folded; those pictures can be viewed there also.

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Shuzo Fujimoto’s Hydrangea model

The creator of this model is Shuzo Fujimoto.  The only instructions that I’ve been able to locate are in video form here.  The folder is Sara Adams; she has a very nice Web site, as well as a YouTube channel.  Something I particularly enjoy about Sara is that she gets permission from the origami artist that created a model before posting videos of how to perform the folding.  Anyways, here is Shuzo Fujimoto’s Hydrangea model.

Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea Blue and PurpleShuzo Fujimoto’s Hydrangea.  I folded this during church one week; it took me about an hour to do.  There were two young girls sitting in front of us; unfortunately I think I may have had more of their attention as I was folding this than the speaker.  This was folded from a sheet of origami paper about 6 inches square.
Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea 4 on single sheetA variation of the Hydrangea.  I saw a picture of this online once and decided to try it.  There are some very impressive versions of multiple Hydrangeas folded from a single sheet of paper.  This is only folded to the third layer.
Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea OrangeThe Hydrangea folded to the fifth layer.  This is folded from about a 11 inch square sheet of paper.  Its a little easier to see how this can be considered a tessellation with this many steps.  Each step in the tessellation is a cross that is rotated 90 degrees from the step before and a little smaller.
Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea Orange reverse sideThe reverse side of the 5-layer Hydrangea.  Here, again, the reverse side has its own pattern to offer.
Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea Orange reverse side window litThe reverse side of the 5-layer Hydrangea held to a window for back-lighting.  A wonderful pattern.
Shuzo Fujimoto Hydrangea Orange window litProbably my favorite model so far when back-lit.  The front side of the 5-layer Hydrangea.

One of the beauties of tessellations is that you can almost take it to as many layer/steps as you can want; with the limitation of the fact that with too many layers the paper can start to wear out from being folded so many times or that your fingers are too big to manipulate the paper at certain levels.  Now, having said that, there are some very impressive pictures of tessellations on the Internet of very detailed models.

Check out more tessellations I have folded from Eric Gjerde here.

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Eric Gjerde’s Tessellations

Lately I’ve been enjoying the challenge of folding origami tessellations.  From what I can find on the topic, Eric Gjerde is one of the leading individuals.  He has a great Web site where he has posted quite a bit on the topic.  I first stumbled upon his site and work several years ago and the pictures he had blew my mind.  I thought, “Wow, he’s incredible.  There’s no way I’d ever be able to that.”  While, I still think that about some of his most impressive work, I decided a short while later to try and tackle some of the “easier” designs.  That was easy to do since Eric posts instructions for folding several of his designs on his site.  He allows for anyone to go and download the instructions (in PDF form) free of charge with the stipulation that you aren’t doing it for monetary gain and that you give him credit for the design.

Eric now has a book published titled Origami Tessellations: Awe-Inspiring Geometric Designs.  I haven’t had the privilege of owning this book, yet, but look forward to it.  The couple of designs that I have folded came from the Web site, and they are a fun challenge.

Once the tessellations are folded, they are visually very pleasing on the front; but if the reverse side is shown it too has very nice patterns.  That would be enough of a reason for me to fold and enjoy these models.  However if you then hold the completed tessellation up to a window, or put it on a light table, yet another wonderful pattern appears.  And yet again a fourth pattern can be seen if the reverse side is seen while back-lit.  All-in-all tessellations are a lot of fun.  Here are some of the first patterns that I’ve folded.

Eric Gjerde Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation 1 copyA Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation designed by Eric Gjerde.  This design has two fairly distinct patterns that are created; the six-pointed stars made by the small triangle and the hexagons below them.
Eric Gjerde Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation reverse side 1The reverse side of the Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation above.  It forms a fun honeycomb pattern.
Eric Gjerde Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation reverse side window lit copyThe reverse side of the Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation back-lit.
Eric Gjerde Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation in progress 4 copyThis is the same piece of paper that’s pictured above of the Double Pleat Hexagon Tessellation, its just in process of folding.  I was half tempted to stop folding at this point with how much I liked the pattern that was created; but I got too curious as to what the final product would look like.  I’ll probably fold another with the intent to stop at this point.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation 1 copyEric Gjerde titled this the Spread Hexagon Tessellation.  This is actually the first model that I attempted a few years ago (not this particular piece of paper; my first one wasn’t nearly this good).  I enjoy how all of the overlapping hexagons spread out and twist away from the top-most hexagon.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation reverse side 1 copyThe reverse side of the above Spread Hexagon Tessellation.  A honeycomb pattern is formed here as in the model above; there are more hexagons and they are smaller here.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation window lit copyThe Spread Hexagon Tessellation held to the window for back-lighting.  By doing this, the twisting effect of each successive layer of hexagons is easier to see.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation reverse side window lit copyThe reverse side of the Spread Hexagon Tessellation with back-lighting.  I love that a totally different pattern is created on the reverse side than what you find on the front; although it is possible to see the same pattern if you look for it.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation Purple corner 1 (2)The Spread Hexagon Tessellation folded slightly differently.  Here, instead of starting in the middle of the paper with the top-most hexagon, I decided to see what it would look like if I started in one corner.  It reminds me more of scales on a fish or maybe a dragon.  I didn’t take a picture of the reverse side, because it looks identical to the reverse side of the previous Spread Hexagon Tessellation.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation Purple window lit copyThe back-lit purple Spread Hexagon Tessellation.
Eric Gjerde Spread Hexagon Tessellation close up 1 copyA close up picture of the Spread Hexagon Tessellation (the white one above).

Here is another link to Eric Gjerde’s book Origami Tessellations: Awe-Inspiring Geometric Designs.  You can look inside of the book and Eric has included some impressive gallery pictures of tessellations that he has folded as well as others.  Enjoy.

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Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes

One of the things that I’d like to do with this blog is feature the work of the many different artists that I enjoy.  I’d like to put in as much variety as I can; I have quite a few books and have folded from several artists off the Internet as well.  Now, having said that, I realized something as I was going through my collection of origami pictures that I have:  over half of the pictures that I have are of Tomoko Fuse’s models :)  While I’m okay with that because, as I said in my last post, she is my favorite artist/author and I’ve folded more of her work than anything else, it doesn’t exactly allow for much variety for different styles.  So, as a result I’m posting more of Tomoko’s work; which I think is fine because she is amazing.

These models come from her book Floral Origami Globes.  My wife loves this book and has told me many times that she wants me to fold at least one of everything from it.  I have yet to fulfill that, but I have had the opportunity to fold several.  Something I love about Tomoko’s style (and about unit origami in general) is that you can take the same basic units and by changing the folding slightly each time you get a wide variety of patterns.  This is particularly true in this book.  There are a few different assembly methods of the globes and each unit is changed just a little bit to accomplish an entire book of different looks.

Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes collection table copy
A collection of some of the globes I’ve folded.  Once assembled the globes are just a little smaller than a standard softball.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Alternate Fixes type III GB 1 copy
A green and blue globe titled Alternate Fixes with a Type III base unit (the blue units).  There are three different base units each folded a little differently and thus each is assembled a little differently; giving one of the variables for achieving the many globes.  The other major variable is the “face” units (the green pieces here) that are added to the “base” units.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Butterflies type III BP whiter counter 1copyA purple and blue globe titled Butterflies with a Type III base unit (the purple units).  There is a five-pointed star that is formed on each side that I like.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Butterflies type III BW 1 copy
Another Butterfly globe.  I often use standard copier paper that is available at any store that has office supplies (mainly because it is cheap and you get quite a bit with every pack), but here I used some paper that my wife bought for scrap booking.  I love to use scrapbook paper, but the vast majority of the time it is too thick for what I enjoy folding.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Chrysanthemums type II BP 2 copy
A purple and turquoise Chrysanthemum globe with Type II base unit (the purple ones).
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Narrow Sashes type II YB 2 copy
A blue and yellow Narrow Sashes globe with Type II base units (the blue ones).  I enjoy the pinwheel pattern that is created with the sashes (the yellow units).
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Petals type II PiB 2 copy
A blue and pink Petals globe with Type II base units (the base units are only visible at the points; the white/light blue); the blue and pink is accomplished by using origami paper that is colored on both sides.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Rhombic Patches type III OG 2 copy
A turquoise and orange Rhombic Patches globe with Type III base units (the turquoise ones).  I love the five-pointed star pattern that is formed with this model.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Section B type I YB 2 copy
A yellow/white checkered and blue Section B globe with Type I base units (the yellow/white checkered units).  For some reason this globe makes me think of picnics and picnic baskets.  Again scrapbook paper was used for the base units.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Tucked Bows large type III PiG 1 copy copy
A pink and green/white checkered Large Tucked Bows globe with Type III base units (the pink units).  This one makes me think of watermelons.  This time scrapbook paper was used for the face units.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Curves type III GP 1 copy
A green and purple Curves globe with Type III base units (the green units).  This model reminds me of roses.  This is also one of my wife’s favorite model for both the color combination and the pattern that’s formed.
Tomoko Fuse Floral Origami Globes Curls 1 type III RB 2 copy - Copy
A black and red Curls 1 globe with Type III base units (the black units).  This one also reminds me of roses in a way.  It’s also one of my wife’s favorite models.

 All of these globes are assembled with 30 modules, and each module is formed from two units/pieces of paper.  Thus, each of these globes are 60 pieces of paper.  The globes are assembled in much the same way that a traditional sonobe cube or ball, and as a result there are actually many different shapes that could be assembled.  Some other options would be a cube with 6 modules (meaning 12 pieces of paper would be required), a smaller globe with 12 modules (meaning 24 pieces of paper would be required), and any other shape you can think of.  In all, the book has more than 30 different globes, offering a wide variety of models to fold.

If you’re interested in checking out Tomoko Fuse’s book Floral Origami Globes click on the link below.

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Tomoko Fuse’s Origami Quilts

My favorite style of origami is the modular, geometric style. There are many, many incredible origamists available in this area. My absolute favorite is Tomoko Fuse. She has written a wide variety of books, many in English, but many in other languages as well. One of my favorites of her books (and one of the hardest for me to get a hold of) is Origami Quilts. Everything in the book is stunning. I particularly enjoy this book because my mom is an avid quilter and has been for longer than I’ve been around. Growing up she took me with her to countless quilt shops and fabric stores (“dragged” may be better description for some of those occasions :) Here are some pictures of one of my favorite models from that book; Blooming Flowers 1.

So far I’ve done 4 different color variations, but the model is the same for all of them. I love the different patterns that are available depending on how many colors are used and how they are arranged. The white background is a standard-sized post board; so the models are a pretty decent size.

Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGBP front copyThe front
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGBP front closeup1 copyClose up of the front
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGBP Back copyThe reverse side. Something I love about this model is that no matter what side you look at, its amazing. This side makes the pinwheel pattern stand out. Its visible on the front, but there are two different pinwheels happening at the same time (one is the orange and purple & the other is the blue and green).
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGBP Back closeup copyA closer look at the reverse side.
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGBP back variation copyReverse side of the same model with a slight variation.
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGB front copyAnother model with different colors from the front. The difference between this model and the one above is that here only one color was used for the intermediate, connecting pieces (the green blocks here). As a result, you can see the pinwheel pattern on the front more easily (the pattern formed by the orange and blue pieces in this picture).
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 OGB back copyThe reverse side of the same model. The pinwheel pattern is all the more apparent on the reverse side.
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 GBP front copyAnother color variation. The difference in this model is that only one color is used for the outside “spikes” (the purple), and two colors are used for the intermediate, connecting pieces (the green and blue pieces) giving the pinwheel pattern.
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 GBP front closeup copy copyA close up of the front. There’s no picture of the reverse side because it would just be one solid color; purple.
Tomoko Fuse Origami Quilts Blooming Flowers 1 TBP copyA final color variation. This is one of my wife’s favorites. Again only one color is used for the outside “spikes” (the blue pieces). Something unique here is that, although two colors were used for the intermediate, connecting pieces (the purple and turquoise), I only used the turquoise pieces in two locations instead of four; giving a little different pinwheel pattern variation.

Another point to make about this model (and Tomoko’s work in general) is that there is no glue used to connect the pieces. “Traditional” modular origami uses no glue to connect the pieces; although some I’ve seen and folded are more sturdy if glue is used at the end. These have none, another reason I love her work. Hope you enjoy these.

Note:  This book is extremely hard to find.  You can find it online, but usually only used.  Most of the time when you do find it, the seller seems to know that the book is hard to find and as result is asking quite a bit for the book.  Here is a link to the book on for anyone that would like to go look at it; you can use the “click to Look Inside” feature and flip through a few of the pages to get a feel for it.  Origami Quilts

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